Islas Marias Nayarit, Mexico: From Prison Island to Paradise
The Islas Marias in Nayarit are an emerging tourist destination celebrated for their rich history, stunning natural beauty, and extraordinary biodiversity.
The infamous “Alcatraz of Mexico,” once one of the country’s most feared prisons, is beginning a new chapter as a hotel and ecotourism project overlooking the wild Riviera Nayarit.
The island is recognized as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
For 90 years, this prison was considered the “cruelest and most inhumane” in Mexico.
Located on one of the four islands that form the Islas Marías archipelago, 120 kilometers off the coast of Nayarit in the Mexican Pacific, the prison operated from 1905 to 2019 and housed approximately 45,000 inmates.
For over a month, the last remaining prison island on the American continent has welcomed a different kind of guest: tourists.
The Islas Marías, designated a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, are an ecological treasure where diverse ecosystems coexist, from mangroves to coral reefs.
The islands are home to a wide range of wildlife, including iguanas, yellow-headed parrots, crocodiles, turtles, sharks, and boa constrictors.
This “high-security” paradise, surrounded by shark-filled waters, once served as a place to incarcerate repeat offenders.
However, the Islas Marías also had a unique duality:
- It was a prison island where the most dangerous inmates were confined to their cells
- It functioned as a penal colony where lower-grade offenders could live with their families—wives and children. Nevertheless, no one could leave until the inmates completed their sentences
How to get to Islas Marias, Nayarit – Puerto Balleto
Getting to Las Islas Marias is pretty straightforward. As seen on the video, there’s a nice new Ferry that you can catch.
There are two options:
- From Mazatlan by ferry (four and a half hours)
- From San Blas (four hours)
Departures are at noon, and the return is at 3:30 p.m. Departures are Tuesdays and Thursdays. Check availability.
Now you can fly to Puerto Balleto
Beginning in October 2024, Nayarit will introduce a new flight route connecting Tepic to Puerto Balleto, making the Islas Marias more accessible to travelers.
This initiative will not only enhance connectivity to the state capital but also stimulate tourism in the region, drawing more visitors to this up-and-coming destination.
Don’t miss the chance to visit this remarkable paradise!
Operated by Aéreo Servicio Guerrero (ASG), the flight offers an exclusive experience with a capacity of just 13 passengers.
It will be available on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes, providing a fast and convenient option for travelers.
The flight schedule is as follows: departure from Tepic at 8:00 AM, arriving in Puerto Balleto at 8:45 AM.
You may want to read: Tepic Travels: A Guide to Nayarit’s Charming Capital
The return flight departs Puerto Balleto at 4:00 PM, landing in Tepic at 4:45 PM, giving visitors ample time to explore the islands.
In collaboration with Turimar, comprehensive tour packages will be offered, including round-trip flights, meals, access to the protected natural area, and guided sightseeing tours, among other amenities.
7 things to do in Las Islas Marias – Puerto Balleto
The Islas Marias are an archipelago rich in both natural beauty and historical significance.
Isla Madre, the largest of the islands, was once home to a penitentiary complex.
Today, Puerto Balleto, the vibrant center of “Isla Madre,” has been transformed into a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town), celebrated for its colorful charm, stunning natural landscapes, and fascinating attractions.
Among these attractions is the Muros de Agua José Revueltas Auditorium, named in honor of the renowned Mexican writer José Revueltas, who was one of the island’s most famous inmates.
1. Admire the “Muros de Agua” Auditorium
During its operation as a penitentiary complex, this site served as a cultural center for inmates, who organized plays and stage productions.
Today, it is named after the renowned Mexican writer and political activist José Revueltas.
Revueltas was one of the most notable individuals to pass through this prison. His first incarceration occurred in 1932 due to his involvement with the Mexican Communist Party; he was arrested while distributing pamphlets.
His second imprisonment lasted from May 1934 to February 1935, following his arrest for organizing a peasants’ strike in Camarón, Nuevo León.
Revueltas’s time as a prisoner on the Islas Marías inspired him to write Muros de agua (Walls of Water), one of his most celebrated works.
Visitors to the auditorium can admire a mural featuring the image of José Revueltas and scenes inspired by his work, created by former inmates.
This space also showcases stunning artwork, offering an excellent opportunity to take photographs and appreciate the creative expressions of its history.
2. Visit the salt works of Islas Marias
To the west of Isla Madre, approximately 5.5 km from the Pueblo Mágico of Puerto Balleto, lies the site of the island’s former salt works, an area known as Camp Morelos.
This location was also home to a shrimp farm, another of the island’s past commercial ventures.
Inmates lived here under a system of semi-liberty, meaning they were confined within the penitentiary complex but not kept behind bars.
They worked for one of the various enterprises that once operated on the island. Today, visitors can explore the salt works as part of the Tour.
Interesting Facts:
- In 1951, the film Islas Marías, starring Pedro Infante, was shot in this area
- Working at the salt works was one of the most dreaded tasks for former inmates, as it often left them with severe skin injuries
3. Go hiking at the “El Cristo” viewpoint
If you enjoy breathtaking scenery and long, soothing hikes, this route is a must!
The hike spans approximately 2.5 kilometers uphill, following trails that lead to the Cristo Rey monument.
You may want to read: San Blas Nayarit: Home of Mexico’s Most Beloved Pier
From the summit, you’ll be treated to stunning views of Puerto Balleto and the Pacific Ocean, which surrounds Maria Madre Island.
Why Take This Tour?
This route is perfect for those who enjoy recreational activities, connecting with nature, and exploring new trails.
It’s also an excellent spot to admire the sea views, as well as the diverse flora and fauna of the region.
Recommendations:
- Wear comfortable shoes and clothing
- Use sun protection, such as a hat and sunscreen
- Bring plenty of water to stay hydrated
4. Learn in the Islas Marias Museum
To delve into the history of Puerto Balleto, Isla Madre, and the surrounding archipelago, the best destination is the Site Museum, iSma.
This museum stands out for its architecture, which resembles colonial forts.
It features several rooms that provide an introduction to the islands’ history, their significance in the past, and what makes them so extraordinary today.
Museum Highlights:
- The museum is housed in a building over 100 years old, dating back to the early 20th century
- It chronicles the history of the Marías Islands archipelago in different phases, from the sightings made by Hernán Cortés during his journey to Baja California to naturalists’ expeditions studying the flora and fauna, and the establishment of the penal colony and its penitentiary complex
- The museum also tells the story of the most famous inmate who lived on the island, José Revueltas
- The building features an octagonal floor plan, an internal courtyard, and a series of small rooms, including preserved remnants of what were once punishment cells at the back
5. Enjoy the Beach at Playa Chapingo
Discover the stunning Chapingo Beach and refresh in its crystal-clear waters.
Nestled along the pristine coastline of the Pacific Ocean, Madre Island is home to breathtaking natural landscapes that provide a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life.
Located about two kilometers from Puerto Balleto, this simple yet beautiful beach offers a harmonious connection with nature.
It is situated in the area known as Camp Nayarit, on the northern part of the island.
Activities to enjoy here:
- Swim and revel in the sparkling, clear waters of the Pacific Ocean
- Relax on the soft sand or unwind under the shade of the palapas while soaking up the peaceful beach vibes
- While water sports like snorkeling are not available, you can enjoy land-based activities such as beach soccer or volley ball
6. Visit Plaza Juárez, the heart of Puerto Balleto
Strolling through a simple yet charming square, you can hear the distant sound of the sea and feel the gentle breeze against your skin.
Visiting at sunset allows you to marvel at the breathtaking reddish hues of the Mexican Pacific. Undoubtedly, visiting Plaza Juárez is one of the must-do activities in Puerto Balleto.
As the heart of this enchanting Magical Town, the square offers stunning views that create postcard-perfect memories.
Plaza Juárez is located next to the Templo de Guadalupe. This open-air space invites you to enjoy the island’s pleasant weather and relaxed atmosphere.
It’s also an ideal spot to unwind and connect with others.
From here, you can capture beautiful photographs and immerse yourself in the vibrant life of Puerto Balleto.
The square is one of the highlights of the Balleto Tour, which takes you through the heart of the port and showcases its main attractions.
7. Templo de Guadalupe
One of the most beautiful and iconic buildings in the Pueblo Mágico of Puerto Balleto is undoubtedly the charming yet simple Templo de Guadalupe.
Located next to Plaza Juárez, the heart of the Pueblo Mágico, this site offers you a chance to immerse in the enchanting atmosphere of the island, its serene vibe, and rich history.
You may want to read: Top Beaches in Riviera Nayarit: A Sun-Soaked Adventure Guide
The Templo de Guadalupe stands at the end of Constitución Avenue. This impressive structure reflects the island’s history, from its construction to the evangelization efforts that took place there.
An interesting fact about the temple is that Juan Manuel Martínez, affectionately known as “Trampitas,” provided religious services here for over 30 years, ministering to hundreds of prisoners.
Visitors can admire the temple’s architecture and take photographs.
Visit Las Isla Marias, Mexico: Final thoughts
The transformation of Islas Marias from a somber penal colony to a blossoming paradise epitomizes resilience, renewal, and the boundless potential for change.
This archipelago, steeped in history and natural beauty, offers visitors a chance to explore its unique blend of untamed wilderness and cultural significance.
Whether you are drawn by its pristine beaches, rich biodiversity, or compelling history, Islas Marías serves as a powerful reminder that places, like people, can evolve.
Today, it stands not only as a tribute to Mexico’s dedication to environmental preservation and heritage but also as an invitation to reconnect with nature and witness the enduring spirit of transformation.
Plan your visit to Islas Marías, and immerse in the captivating journey of a place that has truly gone from prison to paradise.
